The last week was spent pouring the foundation!
First, they set up forms and then they used a giant pump to fill the forms.
The tops were leveled by hand.
It was crazy to see our little plot looking like a construction site!
We decided that the east (back) wall of the house will be a 6ft short wall and the rest of the basement (foundation walls) will be a standard 9ft. This will allow us to have a 3ft deck off the back porch and eliminate as many stairs as possible. This should also hopefully keep the slope in the back yard to a minimum.
Egress window well on south side
We had the option to do a 3ft east wall and turn it into a daylight basement. However, that would have meant having a 6ft high deck. We just couldn't be okay with that. So, we made a split second decision and decided to keep the traditional basement with a lower deck.
Another change that had to be made was moving the root cellar. It could no longer be in the NE corner as it would have framing/siding along the top three ft of the east side. So, the stable temperature would be effected. Our concrete contractor suggested that we use the front porch area as a safe room. Instead of backfilling with gravel and pouring the porch over that, we had an engineer draw up a plan that would allow the concrete porch to also be a ceiling for the room below. We will have a steel door and that space will be a root cellar/wine cellar/hidey hole! In other words, if we are in the path of a tornado, don't worry about us- we will be safe, stuffed, and drunk!
Vent pipe sleeves for root cellar. These are 3" sleeves,
but one of them is partially painted over with waterproofing.
You can see the door into the safe room here.
So, once the concrete set in the forms over the weekend, they peeled off the forms, waterproofed the walls, put in the tile drain (foundation drain), and the plumber installed the floor drain.
The tile drain goes around the perimeter of the foundation and is a perforated flexi-tube. It feeds into the sump pump and will pump excess moisture out to a field.
Gravel poured over the tile drain.
Sleeved pipe for sewage removal to septic.
The floor drain leads from the water tank to the sump pump. Should the water heater overflow, it will not flood the basement.
Now, we will allow 18 days for cure time before the framer starts. The time spent framing does count in the cure time, so that will take us to about 28 days cure time for the concrete.
While we are waiting for the framer, I will get the electric company to come out and set our transformer box, the electrician will come set a temporary power pole, we will have the dirt backfilled around the basement, the flatwork will be done in the floor of the basement, and we will install the septic system.
Garden is doing well, I think!
Trying to scale the wall.
There is just something about a hole in the ground.
I can't keep either of them out of it!